CUISINE
Striped and Blue - The Vineyard's Culinary Colors
By Tina Miller Photography by Alison Shaw
Describing the Vineyard in one word or a single sentence is not an easy task. With six very distinct communities, there's just too much going on. Farming, building, arts, food, family life, sports, wooden boats and let's not forget fishing – which is a cultural obsession unto its own. We are a place surrounded by fish and edible creatures from the sea.
When waters off New England warm in late spring, the fish migration begins with striped bass, bluefish, yellow-fin tuna, followed by bonito and false albacore. These seasonal visitors come when it's warm and depart in the fall when the waters become too cold.
Before they go, the critters become more sought after than Fourth of July ferry tickets. These fish – especially the bass and blues – are the stars of the Martha’s Vineyard Bass & Bluefish Derby.
Bass & blue are the buzzwords during derby time when men, women and children live sleep deprived for almost five weeks starting in mid-September. Wives may not see husbands other than for a change of clothes, and goodbye before sunrise, and some laundry dropped by the washer. Normal life is put on hold, and fishermen of all sizes and genders find a sixth gear for the season's last gasp on the water.
Bluefish have a mixed reputation. This feisty, predatory species is a tenacious fighter with razor sharp teeth that can sever a finger in a second. Shiny, slick and beautiful in the water, bluefish have fine, tender filets when cooked. Many assume the flesh is “too oily, too fishy.” That can be true. Bluefish need to be bled right after they are caught and cooked soon after. Blues are not supermarket fish. They are local fish, meant to be caught and eaten locally. Preferably the cook is the fisherman, but fresh blues are available at our local fish markets. Fresh is the word of the day with blues. The longer the fillet sits in the air, the more unattractive the flesh becomes and, the stronger tasting it gets. Look for small, blue fillets, not big gray filets. When fresh, this delicate fish is amazing.
As long as I can remember, during season there has been an abundance of bluefish on the Vineyard. Also as long as I can remember there are two ways to deal with bluefish – either smoked or cooked on the grill in a foil pouch with some sort of mayo concoction. I have to admit, I love both. The problem is so many people have this fixed notion because there only seems to be two choices. If you've tried either of these and didn't care for them, it's tempting to write bluefish off. As I said it’s light and delicate so try to be creative.
Striped bass have the reputation as the kings of the east coast. These beauties can be huge, and are satisfying to reel in from the shore or boat. Some of the best and most controversial fishing stories around here tend to involve stripers. In 2005, 12-year-old Molly Fischer reeled in a 51-inch, 49-lb. striped bass during the derby. At the time she was only 15 inches longer than the fish. Then there are the controversies, let us say – the mysterious lead weights discovered in the bellies, and fishing in and out of bounds and more. Stripers bring the passion out in people especially at derby time. Bass fishing continues to have the primal appeal, still caught with rod and reel, and not with giant nets which rape the oceans. Stripers were in great decline in the 70s, but the king of the east coast has made a great comeback. Bass have a good reputation in the kitchen as well, with big, meaty fillets of white fish, which can be grilled, roasted, sautéed or broiled.
The tangy lime sauce and spiced sweet potatoes are a great fall combination. This can be served with a sautéed dark green such as chard or kale. This is my favorite way to cook fish, seared on the stove top and finished in the oven. Cooking times with striped bass vary depending on the thickness. If you have filets from a 40-lb fish, the filet will
be pretty thick.
Striped Bass with curried sweet potatoes and lime zest cream
Serves 4
4 cups sweet potatoes, peeled, halved lengthwise, and cut into 1-inch pieces
3 tablespoons olive oil
2 teaspoons curry powder
salt and pepper
zest 1 lime
¼ cup lime juice
½ cup mayo
¼ cup crème fraiche
1 small garlic clove minced
1 tablespoon minced shallot
2 tablespoons chives
1 teaspoon fresh mint, finely chopped
1 ¾ lb. bass filets, cut into 4 portions
2 tablespoons flour
salt and pepper
2 tablespoons canola oil
1 tablespoon butter
Preheat oven to 400 degrees.
Toss cut sweet potatoes in a bowl with olive oil, curry powder and salt and pepper.
Lay evenly on a heavy baking dish. Bake for about 30 minutes, until soft in the middle, crispy on the outside.
In a small bowl combine lime zest, juice, mayo, crème fraiche, minced garlic,
shallot chives & fresh mint. Let sit at least 30 minutes to infuse flavors.
Lightly dredge bass in flour and shake off excess. Heat a large heavy sauté pan
heat with 2 tablespoons plus butter canola oil on medium-high. Very lightly season
bass filets with salt and pepper. When pan is hot, carefully place topside facing down, skin side up on hot pan. Be sure to gently shake pan when fish is first placed in hot
pan to stop sticking and create light crust. Cook about 3 minutes then turn over.
Put pan directly into a 400-degree oven.
Cook for about 8 minutes, depending on thickness. Bass should be white,
not opaque when cooked. Serve with sweet potatoes and top with lime sauce.
When waters off New England warm in late spring, the fish migration begins with striped bass, bluefish, yellow-fin tuna, followed by bonito and false albacore. These seasonal visitors come when it's warm and depart in the fall when the waters become too cold.
Before they go, the critters become more sought after than Fourth of July ferry tickets. These fish – especially the bass and blues – are the stars of the Martha’s Vineyard Bass & Bluefish Derby.
Bass & blue are the buzzwords during derby time when men, women and children live sleep deprived for almost five weeks starting in mid-September. Wives may not see husbands other than for a change of clothes, and goodbye before sunrise, and some laundry dropped by the washer. Normal life is put on hold, and fishermen of all sizes and genders find a sixth gear for the season's last gasp on the water.
Bluefish have a mixed reputation. This feisty, predatory species is a tenacious fighter with razor sharp teeth that can sever a finger in a second. Shiny, slick and beautiful in the water, bluefish have fine, tender filets when cooked. Many assume the flesh is “too oily, too fishy.” That can be true. Bluefish need to be bled right after they are caught and cooked soon after. Blues are not supermarket fish. They are local fish, meant to be caught and eaten locally. Preferably the cook is the fisherman, but fresh blues are available at our local fish markets. Fresh is the word of the day with blues. The longer the fillet sits in the air, the more unattractive the flesh becomes and, the stronger tasting it gets. Look for small, blue fillets, not big gray filets. When fresh, this delicate fish is amazing.
As long as I can remember, during season there has been an abundance of bluefish on the Vineyard. Also as long as I can remember there are two ways to deal with bluefish – either smoked or cooked on the grill in a foil pouch with some sort of mayo concoction. I have to admit, I love both. The problem is so many people have this fixed notion because there only seems to be two choices. If you've tried either of these and didn't care for them, it's tempting to write bluefish off. As I said it’s light and delicate so try to be creative.
Striped bass have the reputation as the kings of the east coast. These beauties can be huge, and are satisfying to reel in from the shore or boat. Some of the best and most controversial fishing stories around here tend to involve stripers. In 2005, 12-year-old Molly Fischer reeled in a 51-inch, 49-lb. striped bass during the derby. At the time she was only 15 inches longer than the fish. Then there are the controversies, let us say – the mysterious lead weights discovered in the bellies, and fishing in and out of bounds and more. Stripers bring the passion out in people especially at derby time. Bass fishing continues to have the primal appeal, still caught with rod and reel, and not with giant nets which rape the oceans. Stripers were in great decline in the 70s, but the king of the east coast has made a great comeback. Bass have a good reputation in the kitchen as well, with big, meaty fillets of white fish, which can be grilled, roasted, sautéed or broiled.
The tangy lime sauce and spiced sweet potatoes are a great fall combination. This can be served with a sautéed dark green such as chard or kale. This is my favorite way to cook fish, seared on the stove top and finished in the oven. Cooking times with striped bass vary depending on the thickness. If you have filets from a 40-lb fish, the filet will
be pretty thick.
Striped Bass with curried sweet potatoes and lime zest cream
Serves 4
4 cups sweet potatoes, peeled, halved lengthwise, and cut into 1-inch pieces
3 tablespoons olive oil
2 teaspoons curry powder
salt and pepper
zest 1 lime
¼ cup lime juice
½ cup mayo
¼ cup crème fraiche
1 small garlic clove minced
1 tablespoon minced shallot
2 tablespoons chives
1 teaspoon fresh mint, finely chopped
1 ¾ lb. bass filets, cut into 4 portions
2 tablespoons flour
salt and pepper
2 tablespoons canola oil
1 tablespoon butter
Preheat oven to 400 degrees.
Toss cut sweet potatoes in a bowl with olive oil, curry powder and salt and pepper.
Lay evenly on a heavy baking dish. Bake for about 30 minutes, until soft in the middle, crispy on the outside.
In a small bowl combine lime zest, juice, mayo, crème fraiche, minced garlic,
shallot chives & fresh mint. Let sit at least 30 minutes to infuse flavors.
Lightly dredge bass in flour and shake off excess. Heat a large heavy sauté pan
heat with 2 tablespoons plus butter canola oil on medium-high. Very lightly season
bass filets with salt and pepper. When pan is hot, carefully place topside facing down, skin side up on hot pan. Be sure to gently shake pan when fish is first placed in hot
pan to stop sticking and create light crust. Cook about 3 minutes then turn over.
Put pan directly into a 400-degree oven.
Cook for about 8 minutes, depending on thickness. Bass should be white,
not opaque when cooked. Serve with sweet potatoes and top with lime sauce.