A Homemade Joy Jump
Story by Dinah Corley
Photography by Charlie Utz

Store-bought ice creams fill a real void for the harried cook. But regardless of the quality or price, no commercial ice cream compares in flavor, texture, and eye appeal to homemade.

To varying degrees all commercially-produced ice creams contain emulsifiers, stabilizers and preservatives that definitely aren't on the ingredients list of any quality recipe for homemade ice cream. The key difference, however, is something commercial ice cream makers euphemistically call "overrun." Overrun refers to the amount of air incorporated into the ice cream base during the freezing agitation. A certain amount of air is essential, without it you get creamy icebergs - not ice cream.

But commercial ice creams have an overrun of up to 100 percent, but the homemade version has less than 25 percent. The significantly higher overrun percentage in commercial brands results in a fluffy, quick melting product with little of what dedicated foodies call the "mouth feel" of homemade.

When I was growing up, homemade ice cream was the special summer dessert for any and all occasions. It may take a little time to turn out a quart of the real thing, but I promise it's worth it. Besides it's not just the "mouth feel." It's the memories, like chasing fireflies between turns cranking - and maybe licking - the ice cream dasher.

Ice Cream Makers
I'm hoping by now you're sold on the idea of making ice cream. If so, you may be in the market for a maker. There are several types to choose from, and the price can range from well under $50 to more than $200. All ice cream makers do the same thing and consist of the same basic components; bowl, dasher and freezing element. Your choice should be dictated by the amount of budget and storage space.

As with most kitchen appliances, the easier the gadget is to use the more expensive it tends to be. I use an appliance more often if it's easy to operate and easy to access. So my personal preference is an electric canister unit with a sealed, removable canister that stores in the freezer. You put the chilled ice cream base in the frozen canister, put the canister in the small electric unit and flip the switch. There are also hand crank models that come with sealed canisters or some that use ice and rock salt. At the top of line are self-contained compressor models with self-contained freezing components.

Storage Tips
Homemade ice cream takes more time, but can be done well in advance. Be sure to use good quality freezer containers, with tight fitting lids. Pack the ice cream tightly into the container to within 1/2 inch of the top. Lay a piece of deli or waxed paper directly on the ice cream and then seal securely. Keep the ice cream inside your freezer and never on the door.

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